BOTTLE FEEDING: WORTH THE EFFORT!
This article was originally printed in the June July 1999 issue of Tracking The Industry. . .
Deer producers choose to bottlefeed fawns for a number of different reasons. Those reasons might include death of a doe, mismothering or inadequate mothering by a doe, or fawn injury. In our case, we chose to bottlefeed fawns the past two years to build a quiet, more easily managed herd.
So, it is now that time of year again and I'd like to just present to fellow producers our methods, reasons and results inherent in our bottlefeeding program. We feel that we've had great success through bottlefeeding. However, as you read this, keep in mind that we're presenting what we've learned through our own trial and error (we call it the "Oh Deer Program"). Our methods are not necessarily scientific, but are highly based on personal research.
Supplies needed:
Milk
Although there are various ungulate / sheep milk replacers on the market, we chose to feed goat's milk. We've found that 2 really good milking nannies (giving no less than 4 L each / day) will adequately supply milk for 3 fawns right through weaning. Having goats in the feeding program has two advantages: 1) nannies with the right temperament will actually foster young fawns if their own kids are taken off, 2) no mixing and heating formula. Goat milk only needs to be strained and fed (it is already warm). We heat our refrigerated milk using hot kettle water. Microwave use is avoided so as not to overheat milk or damage nutrients in the milk.
Bottles and nipples
We've found that black lamb nipples are difficult to get fawns started on as the nipples are too big for newborns. Our best success has been with human baby "toddler" nipples (largest size). We particularly like the clear, angled nipples and so did our fawns. These nipples can be bought at most drugstores or supermarkets that carry baby things. However it is important to note that you don't want your newborn fawns to overwork sucking, so you may have to enlarge the hole slightly. We have a small supply of nipples on hand so as to quickly replace damaged ones.
We used regular glass baby bottles. For the first week, fawns only take 1/4 oz-4 oz at a feeding, so for that week a small 3-4 oz bottle did the trick. Later we graduated to the 8-9 oz bottles. You will need at least 2 of these bigger bottles per fawn especially later on in your program, when they drink two or more of these at a feeding. Needless to say you'll also need a carrying case / bucket with a handle by this time. We liked these bottles because the oz or ml are clearly visible on the bottle so you are able to quickly assess how much intake is needed. Based on these measurements, we knew when to increase / decrease amounts per feeding and by exactly how much.
Sterilization
For the first 2 months we sterilized bottles and nipples at nearly every feeding. Later, between feedings, bottles and nipples were washed out well with soap and water (usually when I did dishes). A bottle brush is essential. At the end of these later days we still sterilized bottles and nipples. Then they were fresh to begin early morning feedings. Sometimes, even with washing, the bottles can still collect residue inside. So about once a week I'd swish bleach around in them and then rinse really well with super hot water - sparkling new bottles!
Defecation and supplies
Yes believe it or not, defecation is important to your bottlefeeding program and also requires some supplies. In the abook, Whitetail Country, written by John Ozoga (beautiful pictures by Daniel Cox), he discusses this aspect of feeding by describing wild deer behavior, "The mother's simultaneous grooming of the youngster's anal area stimulates the fawn to defecate and urinate at the nursing site. Following each care session, the fawn then is led 200 to 400 ft to a fresh oderless bed site."
Not prepared to do licking, we used a small damp rag and held a small margarine container underneath to catch refuse. Fawns should have a b.m. and urinate at each feeding. Early on bowel movements are bright mustardy yellow (very little). Later they resemble tiny adult drops with globs of yellow fatty material twisted together. This is normal. Although a bit graphic, it is very, very important to distinguish healthy from unhealthy (soft, watery, discolored) b.m.s, especially when bottlefeeding, as this helps you to recognize potential problems before they start and also helps you gauge how much milk is too much. Too much milk results in milk scours. Remedy: dilute milk as much as possible with water, for a couple of feedings / days and wipe fawn behind with active bacterial culture yogurt. (If problem persists may need to add some Kaopectate to milk / water dilution). Then return to program with even just 1 or 2 oz less milk than fawns received prior to milk scour. (This only happened to us once although we are fairly aggressive in stepping up milk intake after third week).
In spring 1997 we bottlefed our first doe fawn "Reba." 3 1/2 months later she weaned out at 70 lbs (good / excellent weaning weight for whitetail deer). Then came spring 1998 when we bottlefed three of our own animals - 2 doe fawns (Capri and Hannah) and one sociable buch fawn (Chino - Hannah's twin), and one small skittish buck fawn (Venture) that we acquired in October. Our doe fawns, Capri and Hannah, weaned at a phenomenal 105 lbs and 95 lbs. Chino, Mr. Sociable, also weaned at 105 lbs. Venture weaned in late November at 58 lbs; he was a late fawn (August), orphaned and on milk replacer.
Why do I list fawns and weaning weights? I feel that weaning rates reflect that an intense, well regulated bottlefeeding program can successfully raise large animals. Althourgh not scientifically proven, many producers assume that bottlefeeding results in lower weaning weights, smaller/stunted animals that may eventually "catch up" to the larger animals, but lose a certain amount of growth over a few years. Invest in a scale and see the progress.
My personal opinion is that small bottlefeds reflect a lack of intensity in the bottlefeeding program. Has the producer maintained night time feedings? Feedings must be offered every 3-4 hours until signs / symptoms of fawn point to less feedings. By 4 weeks old (1 month) we were still feeding 6 times / day. By 5 weeks we were feeding 410 ml (2-8 oz baby bottles) 5 times / day. Only in the last two months did our feedings go to 4 times - 3 times. Shortly before weaning the fawns only seem to require 1 morning feeding and 1 evening feeding.
With this type of intense feeding, where the number of feedings is high and only the amount of milk adjusts, it is important to keep daily records. We recorded amounts of milk taqken, number of feedings and fawn responses (i.e. "stuffed," "soft" etc.). These records are invaluable when you're able to refer back to them from fawn to fawn and year to year.
We found that making the fawns part of the family for their first 3 weeks was very advantageous. Night time feedings were less of a chore; the fawns bonded with humans (and with 2 preschoolers in the house, got used to commotion quickly). However, not without disadvantages, fawns as house pets sometimes run into difficulties - linoleum (picture Bambi on ice), house plants (dirt), deer proofing fawn areas. We had one fawn who was fearless and would climb up, over around, under, behind anything. One day we came home from from a short trip to town to find him wedged in a 2 inch space behind a dresser! Later we added a small fawn pen within a larger unused acre of deer fence, just using chicken wire and stakes. As they required more space we took the chicken wire down. This allowed them the space to run, dirt / grass to eat and soon small portions of grain. As we were feeding so often, we did not put water in the pen until it was necessary.
One caution I'll leave you with is to avoid bottlefeeding buck fawns. During the rut they see you as a rival for their does and will usually not hesitate to attack. We've fed only one buck fawn on purpose as an experiment in the effects of stesselimination an antler growth. However, we also already see signs of aggression in him and will not be in his pen if he's in hard horn. But he sure was cute wedged behind that dresser!
I will always abe an advocate for bottlefeeding. Our bottlefeds have quieted an otherwise skittish herd to the extent that we rarely see a deer run away. I guess they stick around just out of confusion - you often wonder what's going through their heads as they watch you pet, coddle, hand feed and play with the bottlefeds! Bottlefeds add interest to your tours and keep you interested in deer farming. It's nice to go out to the deer fence and not just see tails disappearing through trees. Handling our bottlefeds is simple. You walk, they fallow. Nudge them into the squeeze. Handle, release, they stand there. You coax them out the door! Oh for a herd of bottlefeds! Our bottlefeds have made this truly a family venture and we just love our four legged family members!
Tara-Lynn Barks
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