FOREVER WILD
...On
Bottle-feeding
This article was originally printed in the June / July 2000 issue of Tracking The Industry. . .
This question/answer forum as conducted with Trent
Derkatz (Forever Wild Game Farm - Melfort, Sk.). Trent admits that his answers
are largely based on experience and are not guaranteed to be accurate or
complete and may not reflect the experiences of other bottle-feeders. We'd like
to take this opportunity to thank Trent for taking the time to share his
experience with us. We have seen the success inherent in the Derkatz
Bottle-feeding program and would encourage other producers to learn from such
an experienced source of information.
1. Why bottle-feed fawns? For tamer animals, a
calmer/quieter herd. Less stress on does.
2.a) When did you first begin
Bottle-feeding? This will be our 6th year.
2.b) What is the greatest
number of fawns you have bottle-fed at one time? 21 fawns
2.c) How
many deer (estimate) have you bottle-fed in 5 years? About 60 fawns. This
year we're hoping to bottle-feed 35+
3. In preparing to bottle-feed, what
equipment/ preparations are needed before beginning? a) Equipment: bottles
(we use non-vac lamb bottles), Headstart Colostrum, milk replacer, baby wipes,
surgical gloves (lots); b) Prepare: we disinfect fawn barn w/Javex prior to
feeding then lay down alfalfa hay (bedding), barn is disinfected again 3 more
times through summer.
4. What replacer do you use? a) "Wetnurse" - we
have used both ungulate and lamb milk replacer. This one seems to have fairly
low lactose. The problem with most replacers is lactose levels are to high
(cause stomach upset). b) Tips: always use warm water (or you will find fawns
weaning very early); never mix replacer too far ahead (mix just prior to
feeding for best results); use good water (avoid unsterile water such as dugout
water).
5. Do you use a colostrum replacer to start fawns? Yes,
"Headstart Colostrum" is Saskatchewan made and seems to have highest amount of
antibodies. Always use it the first day for every fawn.
6. How old are
fawns when removed from doe? Normally removed after 24 hours. But have
pulled fawns off as early as 10 minutes (mother rejected them) or as late as a
month old (infected ear requiring treatment).
7. Where do you
bottle-feed? We have a fawn barn, connected to small fawn pens which open
into larger pens. Separate stalls for a short time will help them bond to you
(rather than other fawns).
8.a) Any special modifications to fawn
pens? Lower half of wire (in smaller pens) covered with plastic snow
fence.
8.b) Why? Small fawns can get out of some game fence. As well,
fawns are not to "wire smart", so it prevents scratched up faces and helps to
keep them from hurting themselves. Introduce wire gradually.
9. How often
do you bottle-feed? Amount fed? We start a 8x/day (every 3 hours) for 1st
week 90-100 ml/feeding; 7x/day (2nd week); 6x/day (3rd week). At the beginning
(for 1st month) it is important to maintain same daily intake just decrease
number of feedings. Finally 1x/day at week 13.
10. Can you overfeed a
fawn? Yes. It can cause problems. The main mistake made in Bottle-feeding
is overfeeding (particularly in beginning). It can cause milk scours and if
constantly scouring can in turn ruin a fawns stomach. Begin with smaller
amounts then gradually increase.
11. Have you ever encountered milk
scours? Yes. We find that "strawberry extract" (in your drugstore for
diarrhea) is the best preventative measure. We use it regularly at the
beginning - 1 drop in each bottle. As fawns get older increase to ½ -1
tsp in bottle. Once scouring they need electrolytes. When desperate you can
crush 1/5 of a calf bolus tablet (need to get from vet, it's black - contains
charcoal, called Cocci Bol-O-Tab), mix in bottle. B.M. will improve (firm up)
w/i one feeding.
12. Healthy b.m.'s? Look for firmness. The first day
or two looks like gum/glue - that's normal, don't be alarmed.
13. How is
fawning defecation a factor in Bottle-feeding? Wipe their "behinds" with a
baby wipe as feeding make sure each "pees" and "oops". Often need to continue
this procedure up to 3 weeks.
14. How long do you bottle-feed? Until
they wean themselves off. They quit when they want to quit. When down to once a
day let them drink what they want. We've had some quit by Aug. 20; some go 4
months.
15. Least and most amounts of milk taken by fawn/season? We
begin around 90-100ml (1st week) and end with 750ml-L/day. Some have been as
high as 750ml 3x/day.
16. How important is sterilization? What is your
process? Important to a point. Too much time spent sterilizing can
frustrate your efforts. We use the dishwasher lots, use bottle-brush once a
day, sometimes add Javex. Don't get carried away constantly boiling but it is
important to keep things clean.
17. When do you introduce water and your
pelletted ration? Dirt? Water-at about 3 weeks; Pellets - right away (21%
protein, 73% TDN and very high fibre); also keep fresh dirt available - theory
is that it helps to activate enzymes/good bacteria in stomach. Fawns love
dirt.
18.a) Importance of record keeping? Necessary to note how much
each is eating (spot troubles sooner). This is easy to do if you match fawn
visual tag numbers to bottle labels.
18.b) Do you weigh your fawns?
Yes, frequently on a digital step scale for as long as they are small enough to
pick up. By week 2 or 3 they should have doubled in size. You know fawns are
doing well if growing fast.
18.c) Do you see any correlation b/w
bottle-feds and smaller size? No. If bottle-fed properly and are
genetically destined to be big - they will be big (at least by 1 year of
age).
19. Danger signs to be aware of? 1)looseness (b.m.); 2)Not
eating - if due to sickness - droopy ears/hollow eyes as well. Tip: if just
stubborn and won't allow you to feed, don't tackle and force them to eat, or
you will be tackling/forcing until they wean (habit forms).Rather let them miss
one or two feedings and soon they will come to you.
20. Any other
problems encountered with your bottle-feds? Watch fawns don't start sucking
the "backends" of other fawns. They can become very sick and stop eating. Urine
ingestion can affect kidneys, also.
21. Is it necessary for the same
person to bottle-feed all the time? No. Try and have the whole family
involved. We even allow visitors to help bottle-feed. It gets fawns accustomed
to a variety of people.
22. Do you think large numbers bottle-fed
together lessens "tameness"? It hasn't for us. We usually try to separate
fawns for a few days at the beginning so they bond to us.
23. What
challenges do you face when Bottle-feeding greater numbers of fawns? Mixing
up who's been fed (can be eliminated by matching bottles to visual tags).
Sucking "behinds".
24. Most important tip for beginning
bottle-feeders? Don't overfeed at beginning! Also, I grind Safeguard into
powder; add 1 tsp to bottle at 7 weeks (just once) to de-worm fawns.
25.
What results have you seen through Bottle-feeding? Bottle-fed does make
excellent mothers. With a herd of bottle-fed does there would be little or no
mismothering.
26. Do you bottle-feed buck fawns as well? Yes. Lots of
benefits. Sure they may be dangerous for a few weeks (as is any buck during the
rut) but they are easy to handle and more manageable. Remember you may handle
deer once but you manage them 365 days/year. My opinion is that we will see a
bigger/better growth because of eliminating the human stress factor. If you
notice, generally speaking, the most docile bucks in the pen are usually the
biggest.
Bottle-feeding is
a lot of hard work, but it is certainly worth the effort and the gains are
immeasurable. If you choose to bottle-feed, do it well and enjoy the results
for years to come.
By Randy and Tara-Lynn Barks
with Trent
Derkatz
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