But how do you get started? Well, first do research, research, research. Get your hands on any deer information you can and keep it on file for future reference (See list of resources). Contact experienced deer producers and look at many different handling facilities. The most worthwhile experience you will gain, will be "hands-on" experience. So don't be shy - offer to help. If possible, work deer with a variety of experienced farmers with a variety of systems. Again, experience is the best teacher. Learn from both the mistakes and successes of others and you will soon be confidently handling your own deer. Learn as much as you can about the temperament, handling, feed requirements, fawning and growth of the deer species you are interested in purchasing.
Now with
a base knowledge of the animal, you can shop intelligently for your deer. Ask
questions; remember, no question is a dumb question when dealing with animals
worth thousands. Your question may just save the life of one $9,000.00 animal
in the long run. Now wouldn't that question be worth it?Make sure to call some veterinarians in your area. Find out how much (if any) experience they have had with deer. Ask for a list of other vets/resources that would be good contacts. Remember, most vets have just begun working with our somewhat skittish animals and may be wary, but facility improvements and a growing knowledge of deer is beginning to dispel myths of the inexperienced. A sick deer does not mean "a soon to be dead deer".
You may also decide to contact the CFIA (Canadian Food Inspection Agency) vet in your area with any specific questions, (found in blue pages of phone book under Canadian government). These are the federal vets who have handled numerous deer through T.B. testing. Ask for suggestions on facility design or for names of experienced producers with impressive systems. They've seen it all and will be willing to help because they don't want to come to your farm and participate in a "deer rodeo".
Now, what will you call your new venture? It is time to pick a name and register it with the Saskatchewan Dept. of Justice - Corporations branch (found in blue pages of phone book under Saskatchewan government). Cost will be $110.00 for initial name registration with a renewal fee of $50.00 every 3 years. Remember, make your name memorable because marketing and promotion are always important considerations.
Saskatchewan regulations require you to have "unique" animal identification. One of those two forms of identification is your own personal choice for visual I.D. The other is a jurisdiction tag approved by S.A.F. Which leads to the next step - obtaining a herd prefix. This herd prefix is printed on your Saskatchewan tags and is unique to your farm. For this you must contact S.A.F. (Livestock and Veterinary operations branch in Regina). See S.A.F. insert. Your herd prefix is necessary before proceeding to the next step.
Next step is to apply for a game farm license through Saskatchewan Ag and Food (S.A.F.). This requires an initial fee of $200.00 which is good for 5 years. Then every 5 years following there is a $150.00 renewal fee. Your game farm license will need your herd prefix on it.
Now that you are knowledgeable about deer, become knowledgeable about the industry as a whole. You need to remain up-to-date on regulations, government negotiations, industry meetings and seminars. The Saskatchewan Whitetail and Mule Deer Producers Association (SWAMDPA) has been formed to bring deer farmers together to organize and promote the deer industry. Consider being a part of the association by purchasing a membership.
In the midst of all this, you should be designing and re-designing your fence and facility on paper. Decide on wood posts vs. metal oil pipe (get estimates), call for fencing supplies and estimates. Again talk to experienced producers. Decide on a corral system (use solid wall if you can). Decide on a squeeze. In our experience, we set up a small scale on a rented acreage, then bought a home quarter, tore down our original fence and used the opportunity to redesign in a better fashion. My advice - don't try to join game fence portions by tying each line with your fingers in order to save money. Pay the price for the appropriate equipment and do the job well! That equipment price is easily re-couped many times in the profit price of even one animal sold later on. Remember game fence is high tensile and should give a bit while not being "saggy". If your deer do run into a fence, it shouldn't act as a solid brick wall with non-existent recoil. (For fencing tips refer to booklet "Fencing for Elk and Deer" produced by Sask. Ag and Food).
Finally, in setting up your fence, a game farm inspector will need to give you permission to stock your farm, once satisfied that wildlife has been sufficiently purged from your fenced land.
Before purchasing your deer, you should be fairly knowledgeable of their nutrition requirements. Will you mix your own feed? And if so, do you know how to rework your mathematical feed equation? Or will you buy fixed formula rations? By mixing your own, you are able to control, change or rearrange their rations through out the year. (Deer require different amounts/proportions of protein, TDN, energy, minerals, etc. at different times of the year). Learn bout the numerous components of deer nutrition and be able to rework them. Fixed formula rations are supposed to already be mixed based on the deer's seasonal needs. Other considerations for feed: chelated mineral, complete rations and more. Talk to producers, feed suppliers and feed analysts to make the best decision for your farm.
Also, you need to consider pail feeding vs. self feeding. Pail feeding usually allows you closer inspection of your deer, as they are an animal governed by routine. This method, for us, only requires about 15 minutes of chore time for a 40-50 head herd. If you decide to self feed (there are good feeders on the market), you will even lessen your daily labor input, which will allow you the freedom to leave your stock for brief holidays. (However this does not replace checking your herd regularly).
One feed tip: avoid jumping from one feed to another to another because it affects your deer and may possibly limit antler growth. If you find a feed that works for you - stick with it and enjoy the results. If you decide to change do it gradually if possible.
Now that you have a farm name, game farm license, herd prefix, have researched and set up your facility - shop, shop, shop. Look for deer with genetic potential to add to your farm. Decide on bottle-fed or non-bottle-fed. What's the difference in handling these two groups of deer? You lead bottle-feds - in front. You guide non-bottle-feds from behind. Quiet animals are the best to handle with minimal losses. Have patience, patience, patience - never push your deer hard.
Now that you've purchased a spectacular herd of deer, determine to keep detailed informative records (or good luck marketing your animals later). Fill out inventory reports regularly, keep track of genetics/family history, keep anecdotal notes on each animal and maintain individual fawning and health records.
To move your newly purchased animals, the person from whom you bought the animals is responsible for contacting their district CFIA officer for a Transport of Animals Permit (TAP). Once moved, the original farm will also provide a copy to S.A.F. As the present owner you also need a copy of the Tap in your possession.
Now that you have all your Whitetails or Mulies home, spend time with them an the pens and get to know them as individuals. Deer farming is truly an amazing economical and personally satisfying venture. Sit back, rest, and enjoy.